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Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock Riesling 2003

The lofty status achieved by the Jasper Hill vineyard by the mid 1990s, as well as the exceptional balance and longevity of its wines made to that time, are largely responsible for the frenzy to buy land in Heathcote and plant it to shiraz vines. Jasper Hill is a dryland vineyard, so several recent seasons — which have witnessed the death of many large trees on the property — have naturally been more difficult from the perspective of making balanced and brightly-fruited wine. Jeremy Oliver