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Vinea Marson Heathcote Nebbiolo 2005

Massive lift, raw and angular at the moment. Mixed grill, rhubarb, very floral. I like it. 94 points Anthony D'Anna

When the first batch of Marson's wines were released last year, it was sans nebbiolo, the quality not quite meeting the grade. The 2005 Vinea Marson Nebbiolo ($39, 91-92 points) is then the first public sighting of it, and while $39 is not cheap, in the realms of nebbiolo, this is actually pretty good buying. It's majestically structured, pure, long, varietal, primed with tobacco, fennel, rose and black cherry, and not a little lifted and floral. I couldn't quite make up my mind on the score, but it's excellent, and should be investigated by anyone interested in nebbiolo. I'm not really supposed to be buying wine this year - but this wine might just stretch me. Drink: 2011-2016. Campbell Mattinson, The Winefront

Pre-release sample. Light-medium depth red-ruby in colour. A really inviting nose you could smell at length – florals, raspberry-red cherry fruit, even a touch of the Amarone’s. Rich fruit balanced with solid, chalky tannins and a hint of spice on the finish. Excellent Australian Nebbiolo that should cellar well for the medium term at least, from relatively young vines. 18/20 Chris Hammer

Marsons serious attempt at Barolos seems to be paying dividends. The 2005 Vinea Marson Nebbiolo stood up very well amongst tough company. Very fragnant rose petals (would have liked some tar, too). Very nice palate and good quality tannins. Sanjay Nankurder

This medium depth, red ruby coloured wine is our first release of this variety. The complex nose exhibits characters of raspberries, rhubarb, rose petals, floral and dried herbs. The characteristics, present on the palate, are intergrated with spicy oak and chalky tannins. A wine with great length. Mario Marson

The name will mean a lot to a lot of people – because this is Mario Marson’s new label, produced off his own Heathcote property. The reason the name will mean a lot is that Mario was the winemaker at Mount Mary for many years and more recently, made the Jasper Hill wines with Ron Laughton. Impressive pedigree for an impressive person – as if that wasn’t enough, Mario has also been something of a winemaking mentor to Franco D’Anna at the can’t-put-a-foot-wrong Hoddles Creek Estate winery. The below wines were made off relatively young vines, and are an impressive debut. Before long a nebbiolo will be added to the range – this is a new label to look out for. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, WINEFRONT MONTHLY