Innocent Bystander is the entry-level range from Phil Sexton at the Giant Steps winery in the Yarra Valley. Who's Phil Sexton, you may wonder? He's been a pioneering micro-brewer in Western Australia - Matilda Bay, Redback and little Creatures - and a Margaret River winemaker, the founder of the reputable Devil's Lair. All the Bystanders are worth at least a glance, but the rose especially appeals for its bright cherry and strawberry fruit, its neat balance and its seasonable relevance. A simple style maybe, but a handy option for spring and summer meals. Paddy Kendler in 'Quaffing', Herald Sun
