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Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004 A tightly focused, firm and sassy 389 of structure and sophistication. Deeply scented with alluring and lightly spicy aromas of crushed dark berries and cedary oak, this slightly meaty red blend reveals undertones of briar, white pepper, mint and a hint of game. Long and smooth, its intense and dark-fruited palate of cassis, mulberries, cherries and plums is underpinned by a chalky chassis of firm tannin. It slowly reveals nuances of dried herbs and underlying meatiness, while its generous complement of vanilla oak shows some classy integration. It’s a lot more contemporary than the traditional 389, but very impressive, all the same. (South Australia, $38 retail, approx. 95 points, drink 2016-2024+) Jeremy Oliver In the past week I've had a lot of emails over this wine - it's clearly the wine that people really look out for. My first impression is that it's been built to last. It's not a show pony, it's not flamboyant, the oak is seamlessly integrated and the wealth of fruit is shy at putting its best step forward. Patience is required here, but it is a very good wine. Brooding, tight, grainy, dusty blackcurrant and tobacco and plums, which with time also offer up the scent of violets, even pepper. The tannin structure is significant, but appropriate to what the wine has in store. It will definitely cellar well. Give this a dozen years in a cool dark place, and it should be a top echelon Bin 389. Drink: 2013-2021. 94 points. Cambell Mattinson, The Winefront Vintage Conditions A bove average winter rainfall led into a promising vintage, which was characterised by mild conditions up until February, followed by hot weather conditions throughout March and April. South Australia fared well and produced wines of elegance and intensity. Grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Shiraz (47%) Dense and dark, and, at the time of tasting, still possessing a purple core. The nose hints at Grange character, necessitating a re-look at the label/bottle! The supportive oak sits beautifully, seamlessly integrated. Stewed plum flavours meshed with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and whole black peppercorns (not ground). Would nuances of game terrine with pistachio shell be taking it a bit far? Surely not! The palate is tight and full-bodied, persistent, long and forceful. The wine has impressive texture, with pronounced, well-defined powdery tannins and oak totally absorbed in a wash of liquorice and berried fruits. The 2004 Bin 389 is a true ‘Baby Grange’ release, as per the original style blue-print. Watch out 1996 and 1998, the 2004 approaches, accelerating in the overtaking lane! Peter Gago