Yarra Yarra is a small and dedicated maker of finely crafted Yarra Valley table wines from the Bordeaux varieties. The reserve level Yarra Yarra cabernet blend is a spectacular wine, the best yet from this winery and a red that shows that Australian vineyards can indeed marry the key attributes of cabernet sauvignon: depth of perfume and flavour, with strength and inherent structure. Ian Maclean suggested I rerate the 2003 Syrah Viognier, which I have happily done. Its overt greenness has subsided considerably, and the wine is today showing a much better balance. Jeremy Oliver
