Any discussion of the wines of Tuscany has to begin with Chianti and especially Chianti Classico, the region's linchpin. The Chianti district is the land between Florence and Siena, Chianti Classico. Non-Classico Chianti covers a far wider and more variable area, about 75 miles (120 km) west to east from the coast to Arezzo, and a similar distance north to south, from Pistoia to south of Montalcino. Most of it falls into one of eight subzones including Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Montabano, Chianti Colli Aretini and Chianti Rufina. Paolo de Marchi is esteemed as a winemaker of talent and individuality. Self-taught, he has developed a particularly lively, fruit-forward style, allied with great depth and complexity. Clive Cotes
Isole e Olena is comprised of two farms, "Isole" and "Olena," purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. The current manager, Paolo De Marchi (see photo), is the fourth generation of the De Marchi to make wine in Italy (the extended family also makes wine in Piedmonte). Paolo graduated from the University of Torino where he specialized in Oenology, and currently maintains relationships with the Oenology faculties of the Universities of Montpellier, Beaune, Torino, Geisenheim and UC Davis. He is among the most respected winemakers in the world. His early enthusiasm for "extra-Tuscan" grapes in Chianti has been tempered by his respect for the unique characteristics of Tuscany's indigenous Sangiovese. This is a demanding grape, difficult to ripen and requiring extraordinary work in the vineyards to insure high quality. Paolo still produces small amounts of wines from "international varieties," including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay, but his Chianti Classico and Cepparello (100% Sangiovese), are his own, best contribution to Tuscan culture.
