A classic 2004 Australian red of superb, effortless natural balance and elegance. Its deep, heady aromas of liqueur-like cassis, dark plums and berries overlie lightly smoky aromas of smallgoods, dark chocolates and vanilla, with undertones of violets, red berries and currants. Deep, juicy and concentrated, its jujube-like fruit is tightly harnessed with smooth, newish oak and supported by a firm but pliant undercarriage of drying tannins. Long and lavish, it finishes with deep, meaty fruit and lingering suggestions of licorice, spices and dried herbs. (Barossa Valley, $160 retail, approx., drink 2024-2034+) 96 points Jeremy Oliver
