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Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2004 375ml

The 2004 vintage would have to be one of my favourite Tuscan vintages. They are beautiful wines, not over-extracted nor green: just perfectly balanced wines. This wine is an absolute ripper. It has more depth of fruit than most standard Chianti's and has supreme balance. On the nose, there is black cherries, chocolate and licorice. The palate is lucsious and perfectly made and whilst it is beautiful to drink now, it is still unevolved. 95 points Anthony D'Anna

Fundamental to Castello di Ama, is their attention to cultivating the appropriate clones of Sangiovese with the terroir within each of their vineyard. Whilst others opted for the "Super-Tuscan" route, eschewing indiginous grape varieties for international "playboys" such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; Castello di Ama sought to maximise the potential of their own Sangiovese. They admit that this has had to be fine-tuned since some of the Sangiovese was not planted in the optimal area in the 1960's. Live and learn as they say.

Of the 90-hectares, 55-hectares are dedicated to Chianti Classico. The grape varietals consist of 80% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo with the remainder split between Merlot and Malvasia Nera. Careful selection is practiced in the vineyard, with bunched crushed and destemmed prior to fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. During this period, there is gentle pumping-over to extract colour and tannins, plus a 25-day period of skin-maceration. The wine is then matured in French oak barrels, 30% new oak with the rest 3-years old. Approximately 8,000 cases are produced per annum.

'If this is not a five star vintage, than I don't know what more is needed to make it,' says top producer Lamberto Frescobaldi in Tuscany, '2004 is a vintage characterized by deep, dark must with bright tonality, outstanding aromas, depth and length.' Renzo Cotarella of Antinori is a little more cautious in his judgement as the harvest is still underway. 'Bolgheri is being picked and looks very promising. Montalcino has given us excellent results,' he said. Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena talks of thick-skinned grapes with incredible depth of colour, fresh bouquet, good balance between sugar and acidity and ripe tannins. Decanter