Rather a simple and apologetic expression of this wine, whose unusually briary and meaty aromas of red and black fruits reveal undertones of dried herbs, licorice and suggestions of iodide. Full to medium in weight, it’s initially smooth and vibrant, with lively, almost jujube-like red and black berry flavours, but then thins out towards a lacklustre finish framed by sappy acids. (Adelaide Metropolitan, $75 retail, approx., 16.3/88, drink 2007-2010) Jeremy Oliver
