Savoury, taut and mineral, this elegant and shapely white blend underpins its juicy flavours of gooseberries, melon and lemon rind with a finely powered chalkiness. Backed by dusty suggestions of herbs, cloves and cinnamon, with a hint of fresh lychees and vanilla oak, it’s long and briney, finishing with texture, shape and focus. (Yarra Valley, 18.6/95 points, drink 2011-2014) Jeremy Oliver
