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Peter Lehmann Semillon 2005

This made me do a double-take - surely this sells for more than $12? It's blinding value at that. Light, crisp, juicy, enormously drinkable, fun, sunny, herbal, slightly developed, all that - and yet it's true the variety, to its fresh citrussy heart, to the zing of clean, fresh flavour on the finish. Brilliant. Drink: 2007-2009. 91 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Winefront

IT is easy to think of Peter Lehmann Wines as merely an extremely honest winery making traditional wine styles to a series of carefully selected price points. Maybe all of that is true, but there is a great deal more to the wines it makes these days, which are in fact a felicitous marriage of the old and the new.

Take its semillons, for example. It was only yesterday that most Barossa semillon was picked at 13 degrees baume (a specific gravity measurement indicating sugar content), given extended skin contact and matured in cheap American oak. It was a ghastly wine when first bottled and went rapidly downhill thereafter.

Whether Andrew Wigan (Lehmann chief winemaker) would agree that the Lehmann semillons of a decade ago deserved the ghastly epithet is a moot point. What matters is that today Lehmann is the largest producer of semillon in Australia, making 110,000 cases a year.




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