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Grosset Polish Hill is a single site wine from the Polish Hill vineyard, planted at 460 metres above sea level on sandy loam over shallow clay with underlying gravel, shale and slate. It has been made each year since 1981.
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2009
The new MW classification of Australian wines, like the established Langtons classification, rates the Grosset Polish Hill as the epitome of Australian riesling. The 2009 is a wonderful follow-up to the excellent 2008. While these vintages may become acknowledged as among the finest Polish Hill Rieslings of the decade, they are nevertheless quite different. In some ways, the 2009 Polish Hill is a surprise packet with quite exuberant, lifted floral aromatics providing a departure from the norm.
On the palate, there is a brightness and youthful tang that is rare in young Polish Hill Rieslings. As ever, there is intense, pristine lime juice flavour made more complex by slatey, minerally characters all compressed and coiled by the wine's tightness of structure. There's characteristic finesse, power and a steely quality before the taut natural acidity highlights its lingering, dry finish. While the 2009 Polish Hill should age as well as other vintages, it may provide more joy in its youth.
General Cellaring Guide: Enjoy now or cellar 6-15 years
In addition to the Grosset Polish Hill being instrumental in Jeff being awarded International Riesling Winemaker of the Year, this wine has now received wide international acclaim. USA's Robert Parker has described recent vintages as "the finest riesling I have ever tasted from Australia" while Wine and Spirit (USA) rated the Grosset Polish Hill in its "25 Great Vineyards of the World".
In Australia, Grosset Polish Hill is the only riesling to be rated "outstanding" on the Langton Classification of Distinguished Australian Wines.
This is very much in the style of the very best ‘Polish Hill’ Rieslings. It appears so tightly coiled, that its release of some lime juice aroma is restrained; likewise, the flavours of zesty limes squeezed over quartzy minerals is evident but austere. There’s the characteristic tight, lean, steely structure holding in layer after layer of flavour, impeccable balance, and mighty yet controlled power. The hints are there of future promise: a vibrance, a youthful zestiness, an intensity of flavour all subjugated at present. That refreshing, lingering bone dry finish, too, is uncompromising. Some time ago Wine and Spirits (USA) recognised the Grosset Polish Hill Vineyard as one of the ‘25 Great Vineyards of the World’. This vineyard has now been acknowledged in Australia:
‘ …This is a vineyard that creates not just a wine, but a style of wine, and a highly sophisticated style at that. Grosset’s nearby Gaia Cabernet-based vineyard could easily too be in this Top 25 list-though his Polish Hill vineyard is the classic.’ Australian Sommelier 25 Top Vineyards Autumn 2006
A finer, crisper and more elegant wine than the Watervale, with more lime and citrus fruit, albeit less generous. Since 1985 the Molloy Vineyard has been the major source, but as from 1994 estate plantings also contribute. Like the Watervale, made with neutral yeasts and without the use of enzymes. Always brilliant. James Halliday
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