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Apparently this wine now spends two years on lees, rather than just one - though it's such an aged style, that I'm not sure that anyone will really notice. This latest release is in its usual fine form. Leathery, vanillin, blackberried, porty, as soft in the mouth as a frightened 'sorry', it once again demands pride of place around the dinner plates of the festive season. Charming to the hilt - if you like aged spurgle. Drink: 2006-2011. 93 points. (Disgorged August 2006) Campbell Mattinson, The Winefront
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