A touch of volatility at first to lift the fruit nicely, then a rich complexity of red fruit, undergrowth and a touch of spice – pretty hard to describe because these aromas are all melded into one. Incredibly silky tannins though they are still dense and tight. Aromatic red fruit on the mid palate. Long, fresh finish. In another context, this might seem more youthful but lined up with so many younger, more obviously tannic, wines it is the silky complexity that stands out. 18.5 points Drink 2008-26 Julia Harding MW Jancis Robinson