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Port Phillip Estate Pinot Noir 2006

Established by leading Melbourne QC Jeffrey Sher, who, after some prevarication, sold the estate to Giorgio and Dianne Gjergja in February 2000. The Gjergjas are rightly more than content with the quality and style of the wines; the main change is enhanced cellar door facilities. James Halliday

The 1.5 hectares of pinot noir were planted in 1987 and 1988, with two clones (D2V5 and D5V12) being used. The early wines were relatively light-bodied, but with good varietal character, since 1994 they have become much more intense, reflecting the increasing maturity of the vineyards and the skill of contract-winemaker Sandro Moselle. Not made in every vintage. James Halliday