92 out of 100
by Monica Larner
Cavallotto release their Barolo wines when they consider them to be ready and this is why we are now offering the 2012 - when many other producers have released their 2013 wines months ago. The Bricco Boschis cru produces the Estate's emblematic Barolo and is crafted from two parcels within this single vineyard. The Punta Marcello lies on the apex of the hill by the cantina. This cool terroir is planted to the relatively rosé sub-varietal of Nebbiolo, which is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. The Vigna Colle Sud-Ovest parcel of the Bricco Boschis lies at a lower elevation and, facing due south, is the warmest microclimate of the hill. The wines from this part of the vineyard have proved to be more accessible when young, with darker, fruit-rich juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also often contribute to the blend. Together these three components form a complete picture of the cru, at once complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity into the final blend. Don't think of this as an entry-level Barolo, it is so much more than that! Bricco Boschis is a truly profound vineyard and the vines for this cuvée average around 50 years of age! The wine spends about 30 days on skins before being aged in Slavonian oak casks of various sizes (all large, between 1,000-10,000 litres) for three years. The extra year in bottle has really made a wonderful difference here with some gorgeous honey and tobacco complexity coming through on both the aromatics and the silky, fleshy palate. It's an extremely seductive, hedonistic Barolo that is also very well priced for the quality on offer. Alfio Cavallotto told us that this release reminds him of the 1998 version of this wine. It's a terrific, perfectly balanced Barolo. Old school classic but fleshy and seductive as the tannins have begun to meld. I like it more than the 2011 (which I liked a lot).
"The Bricco Boschis site in Castiglione Falletto shows stunning results in the classic vintages... The 2012 Barolo Bricco Boschis is a more immediate and perhaps more accessible edition. The bouquet opens to plump fruit tones with dried cherry and plum. You also get warm tones of autumnal leaf, tobacco, wild mushroom and savory spice. The wine's texture is velvety and a bit softer." 92 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate #231