"Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that the 2017 “growing season was really pretty straightforward and certainly much easier than that of 2016. First there was no early season frost and second, there was no attack of mildew that was so hard to fight because of how wet the vineyards were at the time. In 2017 though the very warm and dry summer was well behaved as it were and other than some rain in the second half of August that had the effect of swelling the berries, the conditions were clement. The fruit was clean and ripe and as such the vinifications were straightforward. I selectively employed varying amounts of whole clusters depending on the ripeness levels. In the end, I think there were really only two keys to making good wines in 2017. The first was to control yields as the vines were quite productive after the low yields of 2016. As such, it was necessary to drop excess fruit through a green harvest. Secondly, I think that it was a bad idea to push the élevage period for too long as the wines risk drying out. As such I will bottle my 2017s earlier than usual. Overall, my sense is that 2017 is a good to perhaps very good vintage that will be best suited to mid-term keeping.” I was very impressed with the now in-bottle 2016s, revisited below, and this is true up and down the appellation hierarchy; he noted that the wines were bottled in four different stages between September 2017 and May 2018. I repeat in case fans of the domaine might have missed it that there is a new grand cru in the range. Liger-Belair explained that he signed a fruit purchase contract for a .40 ha parcel of Clos de Vougeot that at one time belonged to the négociant arm of the firm C. Marey et Comte Liger-Belair. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.beckywasserman.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM, Grand Cru Selections, LLC, email@example.com, NY/NJ, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, LA, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, C’est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, for “Selection Pas Mal”, NY, all USA; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK).
Tasting note: Reduction. Several of the wines in the range possess beautiful textures and mouthfeels but the beautifully delineated, vibrant and stony flavors are silky to the point of resembling liquid lace if such a thing existed while exhibiting stunningly good persistence on the harmonious and superbly well-balanced finish. This mildly austere effort is restrained and cool yet it cannot hide its evident class. In sum, this gorgeous effort is simply at another level." - Burghound