Henschke Mount Edelstone 2017

The vineyard was planted in 1912, hand-picked, matured in 80% French and 20% American hogsheads (19% new). The vintage was challenging, but this shiraz shows no sign of that. It is full-bodied, very complex and very long, the tannins expertly massaged and drawn under the fruit. Blackberry, tar and bitter dark chocolate all contribute to what will be a very long-lived wine.

The 2016 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is steeped in complexity, with aromas ranging from camphor, bay leaf and sage to smoke and grilled beef and from blueberries and blackberries to plums laced with spice. Full-bodied, rich and intense, it's ripe and velvety textured, with a long, licorice-tinged finish and dusty tannins that bode well for the cellar. From vines planted in 1912, I suspect this will come close to the quality of the Hill of Grace at a fraction of the price. Tasted again the following day from the open bottle, this was even better, seamless, flowing and harmonious in the mouth.

Rich, ripe scents, overlay of sandalwood and cedar, new leather and slapped sage leaf, black currants and black olive too. That perfume improves over time, more evocative, more delicious, more everything, fantastic. Slippery, sleek and fine to taste, succulent with a generous side, dark, brooding berry fruits, compote sweet and rich but with a freshness of acidity that counterbalances nicely and the word ‘purity’ comes to mind. Epic wine, so much going on, incredibly detailed and quietly powerful. Wonderful release speaking so fluently of stately old vine and intensity of fruit.